This FAQ is (c) 1998-2006 By R. Lee Hawkins. It may be copied for personal use only as long as it remains unaltered and this copyright notice remains intact.
This FAQ may NOT be distributed in return for compensation of any kind, nor may it be copied to your website (but feel free to link to the FAQ!)
HTML version made possible by Christopher Biggs <chris@stallion.oz.au>
NOTE: If you have info you would like added to the FAQ, please don't hesitate to send it to R. Lee Hawkins <lhawkins@brashear.phys.appstate.edu>. I may or may not add it though, at my discretion.
R. Lee Hawkins (addresses at the end). I also get lots of help and input from other Olympus users on the net. See the end of this document for a (mostly) complete listing. Note that RLH is solely responsible for the distribution of the FAQ.[ top | contents ]
Yes. The more or less latest version of this FAQ can be found
on:
http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/photo.shtml
No one else currently has authorization from me to put copies
of this FAQ on their website.
I post a notice each time a new version of the FAQ comes
out to the following mailing list:
Note that updates have become very infrequent, either because
nothing of significance has been added to the FAQ, or I am
otherwise occupied with my real job :)
[ top | contents ]
In this FAQ, I will use the following conventions when listing model names:[ top | contents ]Single models will be listed by the OM model number, as in OM-1N.
Multiple models of the same camera, where the given information applies to both models, will be listed like this: OM-1(N). This means the info applies to both the OM-1 and the OM-1N.
For info that applies to several different camera models, I will use a variation on the csh(1) listing convention. So data that would apply, for example, to the OM-2S, OM-4, and OM-4T would be listed as: OM-{2S, 4(T)}.
M-1, OM-{1(N), 2(N), 2S, 3(Ti), 4(T), 10(Quartz), F(30), G(20), PC}.
The OM-{77, 88, 101} are not covered, but I'd be happy to add them if
someone would like to contribute info on them. Since the cameras in
the IS series are so different, I will not add them to this FAQ.
[ top | contents ]
For more detailed information on Olympus cameras and Zuiko lenses, including how to determine if a lens is multicoated and how to read the date codes on Olympus cameras and lenses, see the Olympus OM SLR FAQ at: http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/olympus.faq.html[ top | contents ]For a listing of used Olympus equipment vendors on the web, try: http://www.twodimes.org/home/oly-1.html
Here are some tips for trying to bargain with vendors to (hopefully) get them to lower their price on used items:[ top | contents ]0) Do your homework. Get a copy of ShutterBug magazine. For the items you are interested in, average the prices from all the ads for items listed in condition 8, 9, and 10, or EX, EX++, and Mint, or the equivalent. Now deduct at least 10% from those 3 averages. This gives you a starting point for bargaining.
1) Do NOT act like they don't know what they are doing. You might gently mention that you think their price is too high, though. Start by offering 20% off their asking price, or the price you calculated above for the condition that the item you are offering on is in, whichever is lower. Do not bring a calculator with you to do these calculations. You will look like a moron. Just round up or down to the nearest 100 dollars, and deduct 20 dollars for every hundred of the price. Close enough. :)
2) If the items are already an amazing bargain, just pay the man and go. Bargaining on things that are already under-priced makes bargainers look bad, and makes it look like you don't know what you are doing. Still, it sometimes will bring the price down even more.
3) If you develop a rapport with local camera shop people, you are more likely to get a break on price than you will with someone who's never heard of you. The promise of repeat business is what makes many vendors willing to bargain.
4) If this is a local camera store (see below for tips on bargaining on the phone), watch the stock. Items that have been laying around for a year are much more likely to be "negotiable" than something that just came into the shop.
5) My grandfather was an old horse trader (literally!), and his first lesson on bargaining was "decide what price something is worth to you, and offer that. If the vendor won't meet your price, you have to be willing to walk out." If you're not obviously willing to walk out, you are not bargaining from a position of strength. However, your offer must be a reasonable offer. You're not going to get a 350mm/2.8 for $200 just because that is all it is worth to you!
6) Keep in mind that most used vendors pay no more than 1/2 the price for the used equipment than they are selling it for. Oftentimes, they pay even less than half. Keep this in mind when making offers.
7) The words "I will offer you $XXX for that in cash right now.", preferably said as you open a wallet fat with $20's, can often work magic on a vendor's willingness to bargain. If your offer was reasonable, and they say no, walk out. Often they will chase you down to accept your offer, or at least compromise with you. If not, and you just can't find the item anywhere else, come back in a week and offer them a little more. If they still don't accept your offer, you can still buy the item at their price if you have to have it. Otherwise, wait a month and try the same tactic, but without upping your offer this time. After 3 tries with no success, I'm afraid you are either going to have to pay their price or find the item somewhere else. Continuing to hound them for a lower price at this point is just likely to piss them off.
8) It's easier to get a discount on multiple items than just one item. If you walk into a shop and buy, say, 3 lenses and a body, you're going to get a better discount than if you just came in and bought a 135/3.5.
9) Bargaining on the phone seems to be much harder than bargaining in person, even when the same vendor is involved. Some mail order vendors will bargain, some just won't. Word has it that ShutterBug dealers will bargain, but usually only on items that have been there for a few months. Please send any tips you have on phone bargaining to me for inclusion in future editions of this FAQ.
With all this said, there are basically 3 kinds of bargainers: People who are born good bargainers ("horse traders"), people who can learn to bargain well, and those who will never learn to bargain well. Only you can determine which type you are, and a good clue is how consistently you get used equipment for substantially less than the asking price. Also, put your mind at ease if you were worried about taking food out of the mouths of vendors that you bargain with. If a vendor can afford your offer, they will take it. If not, they won't. In fact, one reason bargaining works is that vendors well might want to get rid of items that have been sitting for a long while taking up valuable shelf space.
The sky is the limit! With private individuals, you can often get them to drop the price to 1/2 to 2/3 of what it would cost at a place like KEH, but be aware that private deals usually carry no warranty, so if the item is broken, you are stuck with the repair costs. Vendors have overhead to pay, and usually paid about half the price marked for the item, so you'll rarely be able to talk them down to less than 3/4th the marked price. Always make them give you free caps and (if possible) the original cases with lenses. Most vendors have a big bin of this stuff just sitting around, anyway. Patience definitely is a factor in saving money. If you have to have a lens or body or accessory *now* you will likely pay more for it than if you shop around and wait a few months for a better deal to come your way.[ top | contents ]
First of all, be advised that it is highly likely that anything you buy in a pawnshop is stolen. If this bothers you, it's probably best for you not to patronize them. Pawn shop deals usually carry no warranty, so you need to check it out in the store. Bring about 5 MS-76 batteries (in case you happen to find an OM-F :) for bodies and data backs, 4 AA's for winders, flashes, and remote controls, and a PX-625 or MR-9 adapter for OM-1(N)'s. Do all the tests outlined below in Section U. If you are searching for bodies, it is also a good idea to take along a flash and a lens, and maybe even a winder, so that you can test the camera for proper operation with all of these.[ top | contents ]
All of the same hints for pawn shops apply to private individuals. You can find some amazing bargains from individuals, but you'll also find a lot of junk. Don't get mad at them, though. Many people selling things privately may not even know if they are broken. Just tell them it's broken, and move on. If they offer it at a lower price, and the item is worth that to you, take it.[ top | contents ]
I live in Tampa, Fl., but have found buys at garage sales in many places I've traveled. The things that are important are:[ top | contents ]1. Make a map of your stops from the newspaper ads the night before. Use all the local papers (and often the little free ones are loaded with sales not found in the others).
2. Visit all the sales in the ritzy neighborhoods first, then those in the periphery.
3. Most sales are advertised as starting at 8 AM. Be AT the best sounding ones at 7:30 or so. Arrange the sequence so you don't waste too much time traveling between sales. That 7:30-8:30 hour is when the buys are usually found, although I've gotten stuff at 10:00 AM, it is rare.
4. Work fast. I spend maybe ONE or TWO minutes at each sale, unless I find something worth buying. Time really is of the essence. I walk through, looking carefully, but don't break stride unless something really calls out to me.
5. People always put the more valuable things closest to the house, so start by going all the way to the back and work you way back towards the street.
6. Learn how to inspect camera equipment rapidly, and carry batteries, a 2-AA battery sized (or larger) Mag-lite in your car, and a magnifying glass. Work ALL the controls, look for oil in the diaphragm on lenses, sticky blades, mold on the glass, etc.
7. Estate sales IMHO, rarely produce real bargains, because they're managed by people making a commission. Private owners often price according to how they relate emotionally to the item.
8. If you see baby clothes or toys arranged outside, drive by (unless you're in a ritzy 'hood). New parents normally don't jettison cameras, and many don't have much disposable income.
Thanks to *- DORIS FANG -* <sfsttj@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us>
Most vendors either use a adjective based system (e.g. Ex) or a numeric based system (e.g. 9). Both systems often have one or more subdivisions of any given grade, denoted by one or more "-" or "+" symbols. It is important to realize that most vendor's grading systems don't overlap very well. For example, although something rated 8 is roughly equivalent in theory to something graded Ex, the condition of each can vary enormously depending on who the vendor is, who graded it for the vendor, and what kind of a mood that grader was in on that day. If this worries you, try to buy the stuff in person, so that you can see for yourself what condition it is in. If this is not possible, make sure the vendor has at least a 30-day warranty, and expect that you will be occasionally disappointed and have to send something back. Be aware that "personal preference" returns often involve a restocking charge of 10-20% from some vendors. Finally, if a vendor has much lower prices than the average for equivalently graded items, you can expect that their equipment will generally be in worse condition. To me, cosmetics don't matter much, as long as the item is mechanically sound and the glass is flawless. A beat up and scratched Winder II will work just as good as a clean one, and will likely be 1/2 or less the price of one in "clean" condition.[ top | contents ]
These vendors are generally considered to be trustworthy, and ask reasonable prices for their gear. As always, your mileage may vary:[ top | contents ]B&H 420 Ninth Avenue (Between 33rd and 34th Streets) New York, NY 10001 Ph. 800-947-9954 http://www.bhphotovideo.com Notes: Has retail showroom. Grading system 7-10. Used items carry a 90 day warranty
Camera Traders Ltd. 44 West 17th Street New York, NY 10011 Ph. 212-463-0097 http://www.cameratradersltd.com/ Notes: Has retail showroom. Grading system Ex through Mint. Used items carry a XX day warranty.
Cameta Camera 253 Broadway (Route 110) Amityville, NY 11701 Ph. 516-598-3350 http://www.cameta.com Notes: Has retail showroom. Grading system Exc (Excellent) through Mint (Basically new). Used items (except clearance) carry a 6 month warranty
Charlotte Camera 2400 Park Road Suite G Charlotte, NC 28203 Ph. 704-339-0084 http://www.charlottecamera.com Notes: Has retail showroom. Grading system 8-10. Used items (except "as-is" and consignment) carry a 60 day warranty.
KEH 188 14th Street NW Atlanta, GA 30318 Ph. 404-892-5522 http://www.keh.com Notes: No retail showroom, mail order only. Grading system UG (Ugly) through LN (Like New). Used items, even UG, carry a 60 day warranty.
Used Photo Ph. 808-220-4651 http://www.usedphoto.com Notes: No retail showroom. Grading system Exc through LN. Used items (except as-is) carry a 30 day warranty.
Because you are likely to get it for almost nothing, especially if bought from a private individual.[ top | contents ]
Almost any mechanical problem with an OM camera can be fixed. The same goes for lenses, which includes replacement of front/rear elements (the two lens elements most likely to be damaged). Also, mild battery corrosion in winders and bounce grips and the like can easily be cleaned.[ top | contents ]
It is getting increasingly harder to fix electronic problems with OM cameras. Circuits are no longer available for the OM-2S and OM-PC, and the cost of OM-4 circuits and the labor to install them put them beyond economical repair. However, Photosphere in Dallas can still fix all these problems, as they have some circuits still in stock.[ top | contents ]
These are typical prices. Your mileage may vary:[ top | contents ]Clean/calibrate OM-1/2/3/4/F/G/PC/10: Sticky/sluggish diaphragm: $40-$50. New front or rear element: $100-$150. Replace circuit in OM-1(N): Replace circuit in OM-2(N): Fix jammed advance or rewind mechanism:
See the Camera Repair Resource Guide for a list of Olympus repair shops. It can be found at: http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/camrep.faq.html#ques_G3
There are many things you should look for. This is only a partial list, and if you follow these suggestions and still get a lemon, *DO NOT BLAME ME!*:[ top | contents ]1) Overall, the camera should be free of major dents. Small dings and brassing indicate heavy use, but not necessarily a bad camera. Note that brassing occurs *immediately* if the user mistakenly uses a camera strap with big metal hooks at the end, so brassing alone is not a reliable indicator of heavy use.
2) All buttons and dials should operate smoothly and freely, without any binding. If the body is an OM-1(N), the mirror lockup should operate smoothly and freely.
3) The shutter curtains should be free of pinholes. With an OM-1(N), test this by locking up the mirror, removing the lens, opening or removing the back, and shining a bright light on the curtain while looking at the opposite side of it. You should see no light coming through the curtain. Then fire the shutter and perform the same test on the second curtain. It is best to do this test in a darkened room, if possible. This test is harder to do on the automatic cameras and the OM-3(Ti), since they have no mirror lockup. For the OM-{PC, 2S, 4(T)}, you can use the self timer, which will lock up the mirror ~12 seconds before the shutter opens, so you will at least be able to examine the first curtain.
4) The flash shoe should be secure on the camera. OM-1N's and OM-2N's should have a Shoe 4, OM-2's a Shoe 3. M-1's and OM-1's can only accept a Shoe 1. Check the shoe's operation with a T-series flash to make sure that it works in both manual and automatic modes. If the camera is an OM-2, and it still has a Shoe 2, the only flash that you will be able to use it with in camera-controlled flash mode is the Quick Auto 310. You might want to at least try to get the dealer to trade the shoe for a Shoe 3, which will work with T-series flash units.
5) The battery well should be free of corrosion.
6) The black plastic foam in the camera should not be crumbling or gooey. There are foam pads for the mirror to bump into when it goes up, and also a foam gasket where the back closes. If the camera suffers from "foam rot" and *nothing* else is wrong, you can have it fixed for about $50.
7) Lenses should mount and dismount easily and freely, without any binding.
8) If you plan to use the camera with a motor drive or winder, you should carefully inspect the drive/winder coupling on the bottom. The exposed gears should be free from excessive wear and dust/grease, and in the center of the coupling gear there should be a small pin that freely moves up and down.
9) If buying an OM-10 Quartz, make sure the small two-conductor ribbon cable near the bottom of the back hinge is intact, and verify proper operation of the databack (see P0 for hints).
10) On auto, the shutter should open for a long time with the lens cap covered (~2 minutes for an OM-2N, ~4 minutes for an OM-4(T) in spot mode). On manual, the shutter speed should be independent of the ambient lighting.
11) Mount a lens and set the camera to ISO 100 and the lens to f/16. The indicated shutter speed in all modes should be 1/125 second for a sunlit scene on a cloudless day. If using one of the auto-exposure models, make sure you have a piece of film or a gray card on the film rails, so that the exposure sensor will be able to determine the correct exposure. You can also compare the meter readings of the for sale camera with those of a camera you trust (making sure to use the same lens and point at the same target, of course).
12) Some OM-2S's have a problem called "flying shutter strings" where the strings that operated the shutter get loose and fly up in front of the film. This results in odd dark shadows in pictures taken with one of these cameras. Here is one way to test a used camera for the problem (thanks to John Hermanson): Mount a T32 in hot shoe (set to high auto setting), set the camera to manual 1/60 (not mechanical 1/60), open the camera back, place a piece of while translucent paper across the film plane. Fire camera at close white background. You should eventually be able to see the shadow of the string on the paper.
13) Make sure the used body carries a long enough warranty for you to give it a good workout and return it for refund or credit if you find it lacking in some way. I consider 30 days a minimum, and some dealers warranty used equipment for up to 6 months (but not many...).
If the camera you are looking at fails any of the above tests, you probably don't want to risk buying it. The cost of repair for most of these problems starts at about $100 and goes up from there, so by the time you pay for the camera and repairs, you'll probably have more in the camera than it is worth. If the dealer you are purchasing from seems reluctant to let you run the tests, it might be a good idea to look elsewhere.
There are many things you should look for. This is only a partial list, and if you follow these suggestions and still get a lemon, *DO NOT BLAME ME!*:[ top | contents ]0) First, have a look a Paul Farrar's Zuiko lens reference, to get an idea of price and features:
http://www.datasync.com/~farrar/zuiko.html
1) The lens should be free of dings, dents, and obvious wear. One of the places this kind of thing is most likely to occur is the filter threads.
2) The lens elements should be free from spotting and scratches, especially the rear element. A small scratch or two on the front element probably won't adversely affect picture quality, but use your judgement. If you don't feel confident to judge what kind of a scratch is important, go for lenses with none!
3) The lens should be free from fungus. Hold the lens up to a light to make sure there are no 'fuzzies' between the elements.
4) The diaphragm should stop down and open back up freely, with no creeping motion. Test this by dismounting the lens and flipping the stop-down lever on the back of the lens back and forth with the lens set at f/16, or by mounting the lens and taking a few exposures while observing the action of the diaphragm.
5) The aperture and focus rings (and the zoom ring for 2-touch zooms) should move smoothly and freely.
6) The lens should mount and dismount from a body freely, with no binding.
7) If you have an OM-{3(Ti), 4(T)}, look carefully at the lens and make sure there is nothing that will shear off the reset button on the lens mount. Other OM's lack this reset button, and there have apparently been some third party lenses that will damage the reset button if mounted on an OM-{3(Ti), 4(T)}.
8) Some off-brand lenses from the 1970s are of quite disappointing quality (and are still being liquidated, in their original packaging, in the 1990s). Standards have risen considerably since then.
9) Make sure the used lens carries a long enough warranty for you to give it a good workout and return it for refund or credit if you find it lacking in some way. I consider 30 days a minimum, and some dealers warranty used equipment for up to 6 months (but not many...).
As with bodies, buying lenses that fail any of the above tests is probably not worth it. Also, if the dealer is reluctant to let you perform the tests, you might want to try elsewhere.
There are many things you should look for. This is only a partial list, and if you follow these suggestions and still get a lemon, *DO NOT BLAME ME!*:[ top | contents ]1) The on-off switch and test switch (if any) should operate freely.
2) The battery well should be free of corrosion.
3) The case should not be cracked, especially near where the flash attaches to the camera hot shoe. T-32's seem to be particularly susceptible to this problem.
4) Mount the flash on an OM body (preferably an automatic/manual one) and verify that the flash works in all modes.
5) For the T-10 ring flash, plug in the modeling lights and make sure none of them are burned out. They require a 6V DC source.
6) If you plan to use an external power source with the flash, you should bring same along and test it with the flash.
7) Make sure the used flash carries a long enough warranty for you to give it a good workout and return it for refund or credit if you find it lacking in some way. I consider 30 days a minimum, and some dealers warranty used equipment for up to 6 months (but not many...).
As with bodies, buying a flash that fails any of the above tests is probably not worth it. Also, if the dealer is reluctant to let you perform the tests, you might want to try elsewhere.
There are many things you should look for. This is only a
partial list, and if you follow these suggestions and still get
a lemon, *DO NOT BLAME ME!*:
1) If buying a Winder {1, 2}, the battery holder and battery
compartment should be free of corrosion.
2) If buying a Motor Drive {1, 2}, make sure the drive comes
with its nicad power pack and charger. Additionally, it's
probably a good idea to have the dealer charge up the nicad
pack overnight. Then come back the next day and test it with
the drive and a body. You should get at least 700 shots before
the nicad pack gives out.
3) The guide pin should be straight and free of burrs.
4) The shutter release button should operate freely and
smoothly.
5) The film advance claw should be free of excessive wear
and free to move up and down on its rotational axis.
6) The shutter coupling pin (in front of the film advance
claw) should be straight, free to move right/left, and free
of burrs.
7) The electrical coupling pins should be free of wear and
should return to their fully up position after being
depressed.
8) The threads on the fastening screw that screws into the
tripod socket on the camera body should be clean and free of
burrs.
9) The on/single/sequence switch should operate smoothly, and
lock positively into the selected setting.
10) If you plan to use the motor drive/winder with a 250 Film
Back, you should examine the 250 Film Back coupling gear on the
side of the drive for excessive wear or broken teeth.
11) If you plan to use the drive with a remote switch or an
intervalometer, you should bring same along and test it with
the drive.
12) If you plan to use the drive with either an external power
pack or AC adapter, you should bring same along and test it
with the drive for proper operation.
13) Make sure the used motor drive/winder carries a long enough
warranty for you to give it a good workout and return it for refund
or credit if you find it lacking in some way. I consider 30 days
a minimum, and some dealers warranty used equipment for up to
6 months (but not many...).
As with bodies, buying a motor drive or winder that fails any of
the above tests is probably not worth it. Also, if the dealer
is reluctant to let you perform the tests, you might want to try
elsewhere.
[ top | contents ]
There are many things you should look for. This is only a partial list, and if you follow these suggestions and still get a lemon, *DO NOT BLAME ME!*:[ top | contents ]1) It should be free of holes, like any other bellows. Take the bellows into a dark room, extend it fully, and shine a bright light all around it to check for pin holes.
2) The aperture opening and closing lever (located around a knob under the lens mount) should open and close the lens aperture freely. (At one time mine didn't, and I fixed it by applying a tiny droplet of oil to the mechanism using a toothpick).
3) The bellows should move freely and smoothly on the focusing rail, and the rack on the focusing rail and the pinions on the bellows should not show excessive wear.
4) Make sure the used bellows carries a long enough warranty for you to give it a good workout and return it for refund or credit if you find it lacking in some way. I consider 30 days a minimum, and some dealers warranty used equipment for up to 6 months (but not many...).
As with bodies, buying a bellows that fails any of the above tests is probably not worth it. Also, if the dealer is reluctant to let you perform the tests, you might want to try elsewhere.
Thanks to Michael Covington <mcovingt@ai.uga.edu>
There are many things you should look for. This is only a partial list, and if you follow these suggestions and still get a lemon, *DO NOT BLAME ME!*:[ top | contents ]1) How to test a used Recordata Back 4: a) Remove your old back, install the Recordata Back. b) Remove the lens from your camera. c) Lock up the mirror if you have an OM-1(N) d) Put the camera in manual mode, on B e) Set the Recordata Back for ISO 25 film. f) Go to a dark room, or shield the room light with your hands. g) Put your eye close to the lens mount and trip the shutter. h) You should see a faint flash (note that this won't work on the OM-{2(S), 4(T)}, because it would interfere with auto-exposure. With these cameras, the flash occurs before the shutter curtain opens. Any ideas on testing these?) i) Take a bright light, and shine it around the camera back/ camera body joints with the shutter open. There should be no light leaks. j) Check to make sure that the small magnet that holds the little door covering the settings buttons is not missing. k) Buy a 12 exposure roll of film and shoot it with the back to make sure the back is working correctly.
2) The battery compartment should be free from corrosion.
3) Make sure the used databack carries a long enough warranty for you to give it a good workout and return it for refund or credit if you find it lacking in some way. I consider 30 days a minimum, and some dealers warranty used equipment for up to 6 months (but not many...).
As with bodies, buying a databack that fails any of the above tests is probably not worth it. Also, if the dealer is reluctant to let you perform the tests, you might want to try elsewhere.
Finally, here is a list of folks that have helped with the FAQ to date (i.e. sent me contributions or made useful editorial comments):
*- DORIS FANG -* <sfsttj@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us> Tristan Lawrence <tlawrence@center.colgate.edu> Jeff Spirer <jeffs@hyperreal.org>
Thanks, folks! Cheers, --Lee ________________________________________________________________________ R. Lee Hawkins lhawkins@brashear.phys.appstate.edu Observatory Assistant/Engineer hawkinsrl@appstate.edu Dept. of Physics & Astronomy http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins Appalachian State University Ph. 828-262-7331 Boone, North Carolina 28608 FAX: 828-262-2049 ________________________________________________________________________