Olympus XA FAQ, Wed Nov 8 12:50:33 EST 2006 This FAQ is (c) 1994-2006 By R. Lee Hawkins. It may be copied for personal use only as long as it remains unaltered and this copyright notice remains intact. This FAQ may NOT be distributed in return for compensation of any kind, nor may it be copied to your website (but feel free to link to the FAQ!) HTML version made possible by Christopher Biggs NOTE: If you have info you would like added to the FAQ, please don't hesitate to send it to R. Lee Hawkins . I may or may not add it though, at my discretion. This FAQ seems to have reached closure, since there have been no new contributions in some time. PLEASE NOTE: I have written down all that I know (and a lot that others passed along to me) in these FAQs. Thus, if you email asking a question about something not covered in the FAQ, I doubt I can be of much help. Examples are: 1) Questions on repairing your camera. Contact one of the repair centers listed in the FAQ, not me. 2) Questions about which Olympus Point & Shoot camera to buy. I have no idea since I only use the XA series (no longer in production) and the OM SLR series. Post your question to the Olympus mailing list. Subscription info is given in the FAQ. The same advice goes for questions about the IS series of cameras. 3) Questions on the "current price" of some specific piece of used Olympus gear. I only follow prices on a particular item when I'm interested in that item. Get a Shutterbug or post to the list. 4) Questions about how to get a manual for your camera. Look on the Olympus website at: http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_brochuresmanuals.asp In general, it's much better to post *any* question you have to the Olympus mailing list. You are almost guaranteed to reach someone who knows a whole lot more about how to answer your question than I do, and you may even learn more than you wanted to know ;). I-Introductory: I0) Who maintains this FAQ? I1) Is this FAQ on the web? Where else can this FAQ be found? I2) Model name conventions. I3) Cameras this FAQ covers. G-General: G1) How can I get replacement manuals for my Olympus camera? G2) How can I get repair manuals for my Olympus camera? *CHANGED* G3) Other than the user's manuals, what documentation is available for the XA series? G4) Where can I get my XA repaired? B-Olympus XA Bodies: B0) What should I look for in buying a used XA, XA{1, 2, 3, 4}? B1) What types and number of batteries do the various XA's take? Is one type better than another? B2) What are the specifications of the XA? B3) What are the specifications of the XA1? B4) What are the specifications of the XA2? B5) What are the specifications of the XA3? B6) What are the specifications of the XA4? B7) How do I fix the cover interlock switch on an XA? B8) How do I fix an XA that won't fire using the self timer? B9) Just how good are the XA-series lenses? *CHANGED* B10) How can I use two XA2's to take stereo images? *CHANGED* B11) Did any cameras in the XA series come in different colors? B12) How do the XA's stand up in tests? B13) How can I use filters on my XA series camera? B14) What types of original cases were available for the XA? *NEW* B15) How can I use the XA to take a B (Bulb, long) exposure? *NEW* B16) How can I enhance the rangefinder image? *NEW* B17) What are the focusing distances for the XA2? F-Flash Group: F0) What should I look for in buying a used A-series flash? F1) What are the specifications of the A9M flash? F2) What are the specifications of the A11 flash? F3) What are the specifications of the A16 flash? F3) What are the specifications of the A1L flash? *CHANGED* F4) Which flashes are compatible with which model XA's? F5) How can I modify my A-series flash to work at ISO 50 and 200, instead of 100 and 400? F6) How can I do fill flash with an A{11, 16} flash on an XA? F7) How can I get the batteries in my A1L flash replaced? F8) How can I add a hot shoe to an XA-series camera? Introductory: I0) Who maintains this FAQ?: R. Lee Hawkins (addresses at the end). I also get lots of help and input from other Olympus users on the net. See the end of this document for a (mostly) complete listing. Note that RLH is solely responsible for the distribution of the FAQ. I1) Is this FAQ on the web? Where else can this FAQ be found? Yes. The more or less latest version of this FAQ can be found on: http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/photo.shtml No one else currently has authorization from me to put copies of this FAQ on their website. I post a notice each time a new version of the FAQ comes out to the following mailing list: Note that updates have become very infrequent, either because nothing of significance has been added to the FAQ, or I am otherwise occupied with my real job :) I2) Camera model name conventions: In this FAQ, I will use the following conventions when listing model names: Single models will be listed by the XA model number, as in XA2. For info that applies to several different camera models, I will use a variation on the csh(1) listing convention. So data that would apply, for example, to the XA2, XA3, and XA4 would be listed as: XA{2, 3, 4}. I3) Cameras this FAQ covers: XA, XA{1, 2, 3, 4}. General: G1) How can I get replacement manuals for my Olympus camera? Go to: http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_brochuresmanuals.asp and follow the prompts and drop down boxes until you get to the manual you need. Note that this site has manuals for most Olympus cameras, not just the OM series. G2) How can I get repair manuals for my Olympus camera? Call 1-800-622-6372, and select the appropriate option for the parts department. Note that for the XA series, only parts lists are generally available from Olympus. G3) Other than the user's manuals, what documentation is available for the XA series? A 128 page book on the camera was published in German in 1979. Alles ueber die XA: Olympus XA [All about the XA: Olympus XA] written by Franz Pangerl and published by Olympus Optical Co. (Europa) GmbH, Hamburg was Volume 2 in a series of 7 books called Edition Olympus. The remaining 6 volumes in the series were devoted to aspects of the OM system. There is also an Olympus mailing list. To subscribe, send email to with the word "subscribe olympus" in the body of the message. There is also an XA-specific discussion group. See: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OlympusXA/ Finally, there is a webpage dedicated to the XA series at: http://www.diaxa.com/xa/xastart.htm Thanks to "Robert Caley" and Koah Fong G4) Where can I get my XA repaired? Apparently, Olympus no longer repairs the XA line. They do recommend Camera Repair Japan, however: Camera Repair Japan (ex Camtronics) 5555 Oakbrook Parkway Norcross, GA 30093 http://www.camerarepairjapan.com/ 770-849-0555 I (RLH) have no experience with Camera Repair Japan (ex Camtronics). You can also try: John Hermanson Camtech 21 South Lane Huntington NY 11743 http://www.zuiko.com 631-424-2121 (Repairs only Olympus cameras, can repair older models that Olympus itself no longer repairs). Photosphere 2510 Electronic Lane Suite 907 Dallas TX 75220 http://www.olyfix.com 214-352-8448 Can still fix XA, XA3, XA4's. (I [RLH] have no experience with them, but several folks on the OM mailing list have recommended them). Thanks to In the UK, you can try: Colchester Cameras 2 Barrack Street Colchester Essex CO1 2LJ Tel: 01206 790009 Camera Clinic Turn Park Station Rd. Chester-le-Street Co Durham DH3 3DY. Tel 0191 388 7001 Luton Cameras Bristol 17 West Street Old Market Bristol, BS2 0DF. Tel 01179 550541 Luton Camera Repairs 49 Guildford St. Luton Beds LU1 2NJ. http://www.lutcamre.demon.co.uk Tel 01582 458323 Thanks to Simon H Lehmann and Son Ltd 247-249 London Road Stoke-on-Trent Staffordshire ST4 5AA http://www.lehmannsdirect.co.uk Tel: 01782 413611 Fax: 01782 744579 Thanks to "Richard Linney" Body Group: B0) What should I look for in buying a used XA, XA{1, 2, 3, 4}? There are many things you should look for. This is only a partial list, and if you follow these suggestions and still get a lemon, *DO NOT BLAME ME!*: 1) Overall, the camera should be free of major dents or cracks. 2) All buttons and dials should operate smoothly and freely, without any binding. 3) The shutter should be free of pinholes. Test this by opening the back and shining a bright light on the shutter while looking at the opposite side of it. You should see no light coming through the shutter. It is best to do this test in a darkened room, if possible. 4) The flash interface pins should be straight and without burrs. 5) The battery well should be free of corrosion. 6) The black plastic foam in the camera should not be crumbling or gooey. If it is, and *nothing* else is wrong, you can have it fixed for under $50 (one recent quote was as low as $11, quite reasonable). 7) With an XA, the indicated shutter speed for ISO 100 film at f/16 on a sunny day should be 1/125th of a second. 8) The lens should be free of scratches and/or spots on the coatings. 9) Activate the self timer, and make sure that it actually fires the shutter. On at least one XA that I have seen, the self timer beeps, but never fires the shutter. This is caused by the IC crashing, and can be fixed by Photosphere (see above). 10) Make sure the used body carries a long enough warranty for you to give it a good workout and return it for refund or credit if you find it lacking in some way. I consider 30 days a minimum, and some dealers warranty used equipment for up to 6 months (but not many...). If the camera you are looking at fails any of the above tests, you probably don't want to risk buying it. The cost of repair of any of the above will likely be more than the camera is worth. If the dealer you are purchasing from seems reluctant to let you run the tests, it might be a good idea to look elsewhere. B1) What types and number of batteries do the various XA's take? Is one type better than another? XA1: Selenium photo cell. XA: 2 SR44 or 357 silver oxide ONLY (no akalines) XA{2, 3, 4}: 2 SR44 or 357 silver oxide or LR44 alkaline manganese. Note that LR44 alkalines should only be used if SR44's are not available, since LR44's have a sloped (as opposed to flat for the SR44's) discharge curve which will cause meter readings to drift over time. Also, a lithium cell the size of two SR44's will *not* work properly in those cameras that take SR44's. It will power the camera OK for a while, but its voltage will quickly drop below the minimum necessary for proper operation. B2) What are the specifications of the XA? Lens: 35mm f/2.8 Zuiko, 6 elements in 5 groups. Focusing: Double-image coupled range finder, 2.8 feet ~ infinity. Shutter speeds: Electronic, 10 sec. to 1/500th. sec. Aperture range: f/2.8 - f/22. +1.5 EV back-light compensation. ISO Range: 25-800 102 mm (W) x 64.5 mm (H) x 40 mm (D) = 4" x 2.54" x 1.6" Weight: 225 grams = 7.9 oz. B3) What are the specifications of the XA1? Lens: 35mm f/4 Zuiko, 4 elements in 4 groups. Focusing: Fixed, 5 feet ~ infinity. Shutter/Aperture: Programmed, 1/30 at f/4 to 1/250 at f/22. ISO Range: 100 or 400 only. 104 mm (W) x 65 mm (H) x 40 mm (D) = 4.1" x 2.6" x 1.6 Weight: 190 grams = 6.7 oz. B4) What are the specifications of the XA2? Lens: 35mm f/3.5 Zuiko, 4 elements in 4 groups. Focusing: 3 ranges: 3-5.9 ft, 4 ft-inf., 20.7 ft-inf. Shutter/Aperture: Programmed, 2 sec at f/3.5 to 1/750 sec at f/14. ISO Range: 25-800 102 mm (W) x 65 mm (H) x 40 mm (D) = 4" x 2.6" x 1.6" Weight: 200 grams = 7.1 oz. B5) What are the specifications of the XA3? Lens: 35mm f/3.5 Zuiko, 4 elements in 4 groups. Focusing: 3 ranges: 3.3-5 ft, 4 ft-inf., 8.3 ft-inf. Shutter/Aperture: Programmed, 2 sec at f/3.5 to 1/750 sec at f/14. +1.5 EV back-light compensation. ISO Range: 25-1600, DX. For manual ISO setting, intermediate values (e.g. 40, 64, 80) not available. 104 mm (W) x 65 mm (H) x 40 mm (D) = 4.1" x 2.6" x 1.6" Weight: 220 grams = 7.8 oz. B6) What are the specifications of the XA4? Lens: 28mm f/3.5 Zuiko, 5 elements in 5 groups. Focusing: 1 ft - inf., user guess. Measuring strap provided for 1 ft and 1.7 ft distances. Shutter/Aperture: Programmed, 2 sec at f/3.5 to 1/750 sec at f/14. +1.5 EV back-light compensation. ISO Range: 25-1600, DX. For manual ISO setting, intermediate values (e.g. 40, 64, 80) not available (but you can try to guess...). 102 mm (W) x 64.5 mm (H) x 38.5 mm (D) = 4.1" x 2.5" x 1.5" Weight: 230 grams = 8.1 oz. B7) How do I fix the cover interlock switch on an XA? Actually repairing the shutter release problem is fairly easy and within the abilities of most people who are somewhat handy. The problem is usually caused by the cover interlock switch. This switch keeps you from firing the camera when the cover is closed and is somewhat subject to getting dirty contacts from dust. If I remember right the switch is under the cover on the top right (as you look at the front of the camera) and is accessed by removing the bottom plate and then removing the sliding cover. Be sure to not lose the little ball bearing the cover rides on. I always recommend working over (or in) a print processing pan (or baking pan etc.) to catch the little parts you drop. Only tool needed is a good "0" or "00" phillips screwdriver and maybe some tweezers. You'll see the switch when you remove the cover. I think it may be necessary to remove the top to clean the contacts, it comes off with a couple of screws, and the rewind crank plus I think the release button must be pried off (it's just glued on). All this is somewhat intimidating, the actual repair is not all that bad... Thanks to (Alan Peterman) B8) How do I fix an XA that won't fire using the self timer? I've been servicing the XA line (as well as the entire OM line) since it came out. The thing to watch out for in used XA's is if the camera appears to be jammed in the self timer mode. This indicates the need for a new circuit. NG. Tokyo ran out of circuits years ago. If they don't have them, Olympus America doesn't have them either. An XA that won't fire (but makes a very quiet internal click when you try to fire it on self timer) has oil on the magnet. It can be fixed but the shutter must be pulled out! I can help with most Olympus questions if anyone needs help. Thanks to John Hermanson B9) Just how good are the XA-series lenses? Amateur Photographer's tests (AP is a UK weekly mag with a good reputation) on the XA (Nov '79) and XA4 (Oct '85) rated the lenses thus: XA XA4 Overall performance Good Very good Definition Very good Very good Image contrast Very good Very good Balance of aberrations Good Very good (The XA4 comes out rated as good optically as the Contax T and almost as good as the Minox 35ML in that particular multiple test!) Thanks to Joe Berenbaum B10) How can I use two XA2's to take stereo images? The top cover is removed and a wire pair soldered to the release button. The other end of the 5"L pair is soldered to a male 2-pin connector. The other camera is modified in a similar way except the connector is a female, and the flash interlock disconnected. This is necessary in order to put both cameras into flash mode with a flash connected only to one of them. The cameras are then mounted but electrically isolated from an aluminum bar 9"L. The lens to lens spacing is then 4.5" which is somewhat hyperstereo, i.e. larger than the normal eye spacing of 2.5". This procedure is being performed on your cameras for about $60 by "Rocky Mountain Memories". They also sell a twin rig when they can get the cameras. RMM can be reached at: http://www.rmm3d.com Thanks to Ralph Johnston Here is another procedure for converting two XA's to stereo: You will need the following materials: cored solder, flexible light-duty hook-up wire and a single-pole normally-open push-button switch. The only tools needed are a Phillips screwdriver of the right size for the XA2s screws, a small soldering iron and a drill bit that's just larger than the diameter of the hook-up wire. 1. Remove the batteries from the camera. 2. Remove the screws holding the base cover of the camera. Note that three are long and two are short. Loosen, but don't remove the cover. 3. You can now remove the sliding dust barrier which is hooked under the base cover. Be careful not to lose the click-stop roller, which is a silver cylinder about 2mm by 1mm in diameter. It lives under the top surface of the cover and will probably fall out before you see where it came from. It's easy to replace --- see below. 4. Remove the screw on the right side of the viewfinder (looking from the back of the camera). Don't remove the screw on the left side of the viewfinder. 5. Remove the screw from the centre of the rewind crank and lift off the crank. 6. Remove the 2 screws that are exposed by removing the rewind crank. 7. The camera top cover will now come off. Lift the back of the cover before the front. Don't remove the wires leading to the shutter button and don't disturb the frame-counter mechanism. 8. Looking from the back of the camera you will see 3 wires soldered to an insulated plate just to the right of the front of the viewfinder. The green one at the bottom controls the shutter. 9. Strip the insulation off one end of the flexible wire and tin about 2mm of it, then carefully solder it to the green wire terminal. Push the green wire in so it doesn't become unsoldered. 10. Drill a hole in the top cover close to the shutter button. (If the hole is too far to the left the dust barrier won't be able to close.) Feed the free end of the wire through the hole. 11. Replace the top cover, keeping the wire tight. Replace the rewind crank, noting that it is keyed. Replace the dust barrier, remembering to first place the click-stop roller on top of the spring you can see through the small hole to the left of the viewfinder. Replace the bottom cover. 12. Attach a second wire to anywhere on the metal body of the camera. I put mine through the hole in the battery cover. Replace the batteries and check that the shutter works by pushing the shutter release and by touching the two wires. 13. Repeat the process with the second camera. 14. Solder the two shutter wires to one terminal of the push-button switch and the other two wires to the other. Pushing the button should fire both shutters simultaneously. 15. If you think that the two cameras' electrical systems are interfering with each other you could try using a double-pole switch to keep the systems separate. I didn't need to do this. Thanks to Brian Oakes of Canberra, Australia B11) Did any cameras in the XA series come in different colors? Yes, they did. The XA2 & A11 apparently came in the following colors: blue, red, green, bright pink, and white. The XA3 apparently came in red as well as black. There are some pictures of the pink anniversary model of the XA2 which make it appear to be a golden color. It is not. Thanks to Frank van Lindert , John Hermanson , "Ray Moxom" , and Tom Benson B12) How do the XA's stand up in tests? Here are some test results for the XA from the UK magazine _Photo Technique_, December 1979: Performances: Lens: 35mm F Zuiko f/2.8 (values in line pairs per mm) Aperture Centre Edge f/2.8 44 40 f/4 56 44 f/5.6 56 44 f/8 56 48 f/11 48 48 f/16 48 44 f/22 48 40 Shutter (all measures at f/5.6) LV Readout Measured ms Nearest fraction 7 4 250 1/4 8 8 120 1/8 9 15 59 1/15 10 30 28 1/36 11 60 14 1/70 12 125 8.2 1/125 13 250 4.2 1/225 14 500 2.1 1/475 Thanks to "marc simon" B13) How can I use filters on my XA series camera? Here is how one person did it: Take a brass plate about 1 inch wide, 5/16" thick, and 3" long and drill a hole in one end so it can be screwed into the tripod mounting hole. The other end is bent to fit the outside curve on an old brass 52mm U/V filter ($3 junkbox at B&H). The plate is then set at an angle to give clearance for the focusing lever. The ring is soldered to the plate with a 140 watt soldering gun and painted flat black. Notes: 1) Don't solder the plate while it's attached to the XA :( 2) Get a filter that has the glass held in place with a retaining ring and unscrew the ring. This is much better than removing epoxy from the glued-in type. 3) After things have cooled to room temp, screw in a few filters to be sure all is well. Check the threads before starting too. 4) Remove the paint from the filter ring edge and remove oxide from the plate with fine sandpaper before soldering. 5) Align the filter ring to include coverage of the viewfinder. Why? Ring sets high enough to keep the XA from tilting up on the ring when set on a flat surface and permits the use of soft focus filters with clear center. 6) Consider recessing the tripod screw to keep the bottom flat. I ended up using a cutoff flathead screw and tapered hole. 7) Mask off the threads before painting so they don't load up. 8) Don't solder the plate while it's attached to the XA! Thanks to The Fotolady Using Cokin filters on your XA: I noted your advice on using filters - I came up with a simpler solution with another compact a while back that I find neater. Cokin used to make an adaptor to use their 'A' size filters on a compact - a folding plastic bracket which screws into the tripod socket. It's a simple, cheap and effective device which used to be offered either as a single item or part of a kit with a graduated tobacco filter. Because it folds, it is very compact and can fit several cameras - you can move the screw around on the baseplate in a couple of tracks. Only disadvantage - they can't use rotating filters like polarisers (oh, and graduated filters are a bit hit and miss!) They cost around $20 here when you can find them (that's about USD12). I think that they're discontinued but stores often have old stock. Cokin filters aren't cheap but there's a company here that sells an equivalent, although limited range for about USD6.50 per 'A' size so it becomes quite economic. I habitually buy good used Cokins anyway! I saw a couple of these adaptors in a store the other day for about US$10. Thanks to Andrew Fildes B14) What types of original cases were available for the XA? Olympus produced 2 styles of leather case for the XA. One was designed to be attached to a belt and the other, the VIP case, had a shoulder strap. Thanks to "Robert Caley" B15) How can I use the XA to take a B (Bulb, long) exposure? 1. Slide open the lens cover. 2. Switch the bottom EV1.5/check/selftimer switcher to the "check" mode; the check buzzer will keep ringing. 3. Focus the object as usual, then press the shutter. 4. The check buzzer will stop during the supposed shutter time, for example, if the supposed shutter speed is 6 seconds, then the check buzzer will stop for six seconds. After that, the buzzer will resume, yet, the shutter will stay open. 5. Then you can switch off the shutter whenever you like by switching the bottom switch to the normal position. Thanks to "chisang tam [BRE]" B16) How can I enhance the rangefinder image? In order to enhance the rangefinder view, so that the yellowish coincidence image is easier to see, put a layer of red transparent plastic over the viewfinder. Thanks to "chisang tam [BRE]" B17) What are the focusing distances for the XA2? Below are the focusing distances for the XA2 determined by a test conducted with the lens at its maximum aperture: Far point (mountain symbol): infinity. Mid point (full-length people symbol). 2.4 metres or 8 feet. Close-up (portrait symbol): 1.2 m or 4 feet. Thanks to Brian Oakes of Canberra, Australia Flash Group: F0) What should I look for in buying a used A-series flash? There are many things you should look for. This is only a partial list, and if you follow these suggestions and still get a lemon, *DO NOT BLAME ME!*: 1) The on-off switch should operate freely and the neon bulb in the switch should glow when the flash is charged. 2) The battery well should be free of corrosion. 3) The case should not be cracked. 4) Mount the flash on an XA body and make sure the flash works. 5) Make sure the used flash carries a long enough warranty for you to give it a good workout and return it for refund or credit if you find it lacking in some way. I consider 30 days a minimum, and some dealers warranty used equipment for up to 6 months (but not many...). As with bodies, buying a flash that fails any of the above tests is probably not worth it. Also, if the dealer is reluctant to let you perform the tests, you might want to try elsewhere. F1) What are the specifications of the A9M flash? Guide number: 9 (ISO 100, meters) or 30 (ISO 100, feet). Film speeds: ISO 100 and 400. Power source: 1 AA battery. Number of flashes: 180 w/ alkaline battery. Recycling time: 7 sec. with fresh battery. 60 mm (H) x 39 mm (W) x 36.5 mm (D) = 2.4" x 1.5" x 1.4" Weight: 50 grams = 1.8 oz. F2) What are the specifications of the A11 flash? Guide number: 10 (ISO 100, meters) or 33 (ISO 100, feet). Film speeds: ISO 100 and 400. Modes: Normal auto (XA, XA{2, 3, 4}) and manual (XA only). f/ for auto flash: f/4. Max working distance: 8.2 ft. at ISO 100, 16.4 ft. at ISO 400. Power source: 1 AA battery. Number of flashes: 150 w/ alkaline battery. Recycling time: 7 sec. with fresh battery. 60 mm (H) x 36 mm (W) x 33 mm (D) = 2.4" x 1.4" x 1.3" Weight: 65 grams = 2.3 oz. There is also a macro attachment for the A11 for use on the XA4, when photographing close-ups. Note that there were at least two versions of the A11. They are (I assume) functionally identical, but have quite different internal mechanical parts. It appears that the newer version was re-engineered to reduce the parts count. You can identify which version you have by looking at the bottom of the flash. The older version has two small Phillips screws in the bottom, while the newer version lacks these. F3) What are the specifications of the A16 flash? Guide number: 16 (ISO 100, meters) or 53 (ISO 100, feet). Film speeds: ISO 100 and 400. Modes: Normal auto (XA, XA{2, 3 4}) and manual (XA only). f/ for auto flash: f/4. Max working distance: 13.2 ft. at ISO 100, 26.4 ft. at ISO 400. Power source: 2 AA batteries. Number of flashes: 150 w/ alkaline batteries. Recycling time: 5 sec. with fresh batteries. 60 mm (H) x 51.5 mm (W) x 38 mm (D) = 2.4" x 2.0" x 1.5" Weight: 80 grams = 3.1 oz. F1) What are the specifications of the A1L flash? Guide number: 2.2 (ISO 100, meters) or 7 (ISO 100, feet). Film speeds: ISO 100 and 400. Power source: 2 3V lithium batteries. Number of flashes: 750. Recycling time: 1.5 sec. with fresh battery. Weight: 2.4 oz. There is also a macro attachment for the A1L for use on the XA4, when photographing close-ups. *NOTE* The batteries in this flash are *not* user replaceable. If buying a used one, you should first decide if you have the requisite skills and tools to disassemble the flash and replace the batteries. F4) Which flashes are compatible with which model XA's? The A{1L, 11, and 16} flashes can be used on the XA and XA{2, 3, 4}. The A9M is specifically designed for the XA1. Although none of the XA-series manuals specifically mention other combinations, I assume that the A{1L, 11, 16} can be used on the XA1. The A9M can apparently only be used on the XA1. If anyone can positively confirm this, I would appreciate it, as I have access to neither an A{1L, 9M} or an XA1. Thanks to Koah Fong F5) How can I modify my A-series flash to work at ISO 50 and 200, instead of 100 and 400? A small square of 2X ND filter over the flash sensor will effectively convert it to operate at ISO 50 or 200. This makes the camera more suitable for ISO 64 reversal and ISO 200 negative film stocks. Thanks to Bob Niland F6) How can I do fill flash with an A{11, 16} flash on an XA? The XA's A11 & A16 units offer full-manual flash settings. That, plus the ability to set apertures, makes it possible to do accurate fill-flash (including bracketing the ratios). The problem is that the units have no aperture/distance dials. On the back of the A11 unit, we see that the maximum distance with 400 ASA film is 5.6 meters. I converted that to 18.4 feet. But the aperture remained a mystery, until, by merely observing the aperture selected by the camera when set on auto flash, and by comparing it with manually selected apertures, I determined that the camera selects f/4.0. By using the flash dial in the petite Kodak Master Photoguide, I arrived at: For the A11 --- Distance: 25 18 12 9 6 4.5 3.5 (ft.) | | | | | | | Aperture: 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 For the A16 --- Distance: 25 18 12 9 6 4.5 (ft.) | | | | | | Aperture 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 For ISO 400 Why ISO 400? Because I use ISO 100 films often, and this gives a proper (for me) fill-ratio. I can focus, choose aperture, and shoot rapidly. I can also bracket to a heavier/lower flash exposure by varying the F/stop. Thanks to Luis Gottardi Another method: XA: Activate the flash switch on the camera body using the aperture lever. Return the lever to whichever aperture you want to use (usually 5.6 since the flash's auto setting is f4). Fire away for a 1:2 ratio. Similarly set the XA's aperture to f8 for less fill. XA4: This one is even simpler but has less control. Activate flash with lever under the lens. Return lever to normal position and shoot. There's no way to know what aperture the XA4 sets but the fill effect I get seem to work alright. Thanks to "raymond.c.ang" F7) How can I get the batteries in my A1L flash replaced? Camtronics (address above) will replace the lithium batteries in your A1L. The current price (3/97) for this service is $19. This replacement can also be done by the user: Two leads must be desoldered from a two cell unit. The cells are permanently joined at one end by a metal tab. I don't know if the cells are available raw but they are sold commercially in a 2 cell plastic housing for use in standard replaceable battery wells. The plastic won't fit but can be readily stripped from the cells. These commercial cells are also permanently joined by a metal tab at one end and once stripped are ready for resoldering of the two leads. The unit has mounting screws under the rubber pad that cushions the mount to the camera body. I don't recall whether these screws needed to be removed though as its been some time since I last disassembled one. The A1L has a very long life (hundreds of flashes per replacement). Thanks to Scott Gardner and "Brian Vierstra" F8) How can I add a hot shoe to an XA-series camera? See my Camera Repair Resource Guide at: http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/camrep.faq.html#ques_O7 for this information. Finally, here is a list of folks that have helped with the FAQ to date (i.e. sent me contributions or made useful editorial comments): Bob Niland Bob Williams at The Camera Place, Wellesley, MA (Alan Peterman) John Hermanson (Bob Kruse) Luis Gottardi Scott Gardner "raymond.c.ang" Ralph Johnston Frank van Lindert "marc simon" "Dr. Chris Barrett" Simon Andrew Fildes "Ray Moxom" Scott Perkins <2scott@bellsouth.net> "Brian Vierstra" "Robert Caley" "Richard Linney" Koah Fong Tom Benson "chisang tam [BRE]" Brian Oakes of Canberra, Australia Thanks, folks! Cheers, --Lee ________________________________________________________________________ R. Lee Hawkins lhawkins@brashear.phys.appstate.edu Observatory Assistant/Engineer hawkinsrl@appstate.edu Dept. of Physics & Astronomy http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins Appalachian State University Ph. 828-262-7331 Boone, North Carolina 28608 FAX: 828-262-2049 ________________________________________________________________________